Growing up in New York, we were fortunate to have good pizza and an Italian restaurant in every neighborhood. The food was consistently delicious, everyone knew everyone else, and the owner walked from table to table to make sure all the customers were happy. Many years later, I am in bucolic Vermont, far away from the city. Once again, there is a great neighborhood spot, where I know many people, and the owner is friendly and familiar with all of us. And surprisingly, the food (and pizza) is just as good.

With that background in mind, you can imagine how it would be impossible for me to eat a doughy, tasteless pizza from a chain restaurant, even if they did bring it to my door. Pizza can be "filler" (as my husband says) or it can be brilliant and creative and packed with flavor. That is what I am used to eating at Cucina Antica. The crust is fresh and crisp and the variety of delicious toppings is very imaginative … meats, vegetables, fresh herbs, a variety of cheeses, and even pesto, basil, or barbeque sauces. My personal favorite is Sweet Vermont, a white pizza with feta, basil, rosemary, and caramelized onion.

Cucina Antica is a great family place with something to please all ages and all appetites. Children are not only welcomed, they are catered to with a very pleasing special menu and a play area. Any night of the week, you will see toddlers in highchairs, and young children squealing with delight at the pizza served high on a tray in front of them, or digging into a bowl of yummy pasta. And parents have the pleasure of knowing that their children are eating healthy food, often grown locally.

Going out to dinner is quite a challenge for my family if you consider that we are a combination of localvores, carnivores, vegans, vegetarians, as well as gluten-free and picky eaters who all love food. Yet somehow each of us manages to come away pleased after a visit to our family favorite restaurant and that is no surprise. I want to emphasize how Cucina Antica is not just a pizza restaurant; it has so many delicious starters, salads, sandwiches, and full entrees to choose from. I always go for the Caesar salad with a unique lemon dressing that is delicious, and the pasta with pesto. My husband chooses between the salmon, chicken, or veal dishes, while my daughter cannot resist the pumpkin and butternut squash ravioli. In addition to the pizza, some of our younger family members enjoy the meatballs or the spanakopita platter.

Cucina has the capability to cater to a fairly large crowd. Last summer, overwhelmed with cooking for houseguests, we called ahead and reserved a table for 21 people. I was very impressed with how smoothly they handled this big crowd. Another time we ordered the food to be picked up and it was so nice to sit at the bar and have a glass of wine while they got the food together. They also cater any event, large or small, and are very pleasant to work with.

Get in line with the rest of Shelburne and try Cucina Antica soon. I promise you will be satisfied and become a regular, just like me. Located in the Shelburne Shopping Park, Cucina Antica is open Tuesday through Sunday 4-9 p.m. Call 985-1117 or 985-1118 for reservations or take out.