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by Margo Callaghan

I remember going out to dinner as a youngster with my parents when, more than once, my father would chide me for ordering the "wrong thing." This could be translated to mean, "This is a steak restaurant; why are you ordering the lamb?" I felt a little twinge of similar guilt Thursday night at the Windjammer when we were faced with a menu made famous for choice steaks and seafood, and I ordered the pork tenderloin. You would do well to follow my lead, but more on that in a moment.

My dining companion for the night was a dear friend, Sarah Moran, owner of Cloud 9 Caterers. This was going to be a fun evening; I had a true foodie join me who could share her "industry insider" views of the evening's offerings. I'll end the suspense promptly: we both thoroughly enjoyed our dinners, and also the chance to talk shop with Dan Phelan, general manager of the "Jammer," as well as Executive Chef JJ Vezina. Each came over to the table to check in, and each whole-heartedly supported our choices. (Sorry Dad, Sarah also took a road less travelled in her selection of a, gasp, vegetarian dish at a steak restaurant!)

First, we had appetizers. Mine was crisp calamari with banana peppers, drizzled with a balsamic reduction on a marinara sauce. Sarah chose shrimp bruschetta: perfectly grilled bread topped with plump shrimp, basil, and roasted tomatoes. Yum and yum. And substantial - these were hearty servings. We could have/should have shared one.

The main courses we both chose came from the left side of the Windjammer menu; these selections are the ones where Chef JJ steps away from the Windjammer's standard offerings, although maintaining the standard of using fresh local ingredients. So that is how I came to be faced with a hefty 12 oz. pork tenderloin, roasted to a gorgeous bronze finish (courtesy of a robust Switchback Porter marinade) while still boasting a moist, barely pink center. It was served with fig compote, and a buttery jalapeño cheddar corn muffin. The textures, colors and flavors of the plate were all a treat. There was more than enough to take home for another meal, and I did just that.

Sarah's selection of Porcini Purses were pasta enrobed minced mushrooms in a remarkably rich Madeira sauce, which also included fresh bok choy and caramelized onions enhanced by the Madeira and green onions. It was recommended by our server Cristina, who happens to be a vegetarian. Sarah is not. That is the sign of a great vegetarian entrée: a dish that is substantial enough in both flavor and substance to win over meat lovers and vegetarians alike. And it did. We never even made it to the renowned salad bar, which was included with the entrees; there just were just too many other options. Back to Cristina: she was a key ingredient in making our evening so enjoyable. She had the perfect presence at the table, cheerfully answering all our questions.

Talking with Sarah, we both were struck by the success of the Windjammer, decade after decade. Part of its success has to be attributed to the high standard of service it maintains. Dan Phellan mentioned that a few weeks ago, the employees celebrated the 30th anniversary of a member of the kitchen staff, and told us of another employee who has been with the Windjammer for close to 30 years too. Unheard of longevity in this line of work...or any other these days.

Chef JJ doesn't have that number of years with the Windjammer - he has three under his belt, having come from a career that included stints as sous chef at Waterworks, Leunigs, as well as work in N.J. Sarah and he got into a lively discussion about local produce. He is the person overseeing the procurement of the many local ingredients used in the restaurant's menu. I was naïve about the challenges and commitment that mission requires. It would be so much easier for restaurants to use more readily available and typically less expensive produce. Sarah was impressed by Chef JJ's breadth of knowledge and insight into the unique trials that prevail when a restaurant commits to using local, organic produce. But in terms of our taste test results, it is worth the effort - the food was fresh and fabulous.

I mentioned the left side of the menu - that's where you'll find Vt. Orchard Chicken, ribs with a maple chipotle BBQ sauce, and Seitan Poivron. The items on right side of the menu (more conservative?), are where you' ll still find prime ribs, porterhouse steaks, salmon, shrimp, and crab legs. Conservative? No, just classic. And that's what Sarah and I concluded. The Windjammer hasn't abandoned what it does best, but rather it has branched out to appeal to new audiences and are successful on both fronts. It was a grand night.

Lunch at the Windjammer is served Monday-Saturday 11:30-2:30 p.m. Dinner times are Monday-Saturday 5 p.m.-10 p.m., Sunday 5 p.m.-9 p.m.

The phone number and Web site are 862-6585, http://windjammerrestaurant.com.