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by Margo Callaghan

An unusual set of circumstances found me at the Kitchen Table Bistro in Richmond very early last Friday night. My original reservation was for later that evening, but Sarah McGarghan, the woman whose photos grace my reviews, had scheduled her photo shoot at 5 p.m. to avoid the dinner rush, and asked if I wanted to join her. That proved to be a great idea on a few different fronts.

First, 5 p.m. was a rare and quiet moment at this popular place, therefore, Steve Atkins, the chef and co-owner, actually had a moment to come out to say hello. Of course, I promptly asked him about the upcoming (March 22) James Beard Competition; Steve is one of the 20 top chefs selected to participate from the northeast. The dinner competition will take place in New York City at the former home of the late James Beard. Imagine how it must feel to be included and compete amidst this elite field of restaurant chefs from Boston, Portland, Connecticut, and New Hampshire. I feel lucky to have Steve so close to our own back yard.

Another pleasant surprise was witnessing the camaraderie shared between the staff...there was pleasant banter as the front of the house staff readied themselves for what promised to be a busy night. At shortly after five, parties started arriving and were met by Neal Johnson. He is a business partner with Steve and Lara Atkins and oversees the front of the house.

I tried to help Sarah with the photo shoot, but the reality is I am much better suited to judging the beauty of food once it is served rather than to attest to its beauty through the camera lens.

First was the Shuttleworth lamb shank, served on a base of roasted polenta with a garlicky cauliflower sauté. I love lamb, and this was a tender, moist, and flavorful portion on the bone - the smaller sized option on the menu. The larger entree features the wider part of the shank. In keeping with a commitment to local products, the selection of grass-fed Shuttleworth lamb comes from Westfield, Vt.

Sarah and I also shared a bowl of Steve's amazing macaroni and cheese. There was nothing light and delicate about it: robust Boucher blue cheese, earthy, nutty Maitake mushrooms, and orecchiette ("little ears") pasta. Then there was the sweet addition of small chunks of apple that added a subtle crispness to the dish's texture. When asked about the dish's popularity (which I had to assume was immense), Neal explained that they sell "a ton" of The Kitchen Table's interpretation of this classic. We weren't surprised. Teamed with a lusty red wine, I could easily crave this plate on a weekly basis.

Finally, we were treated to Coq au Vin. I'm happy to report Steve didn't stray from tradition with his rendition of this French chicken stew. The Misty Knoll leg quarter was braised beautifully, and the rich wine reduction sauce found a home on perfectly mashed potatoes. The chunks of roasted carrots added color and sweetness to the dish.

This was a less formal dining experience than my other visits to The Kitchen Table. Sarah and I opted to sit in the bar area, where we happened to sit next to another familiar Shelburne face, Eve Norris, who had stopped in with a co-worker. It is interesting: I have never been at this Richmond restaurant but when I didn't see other diners from Shelburne there too. It makes me think that I am preaching to the choir in relaying to you how talented and committed Steve, his wife, and their fellow chef, Lara, are at bringing locally sourced and very, very, good food to The Kitchen Table.

So consider this review as merely a reminder of 1) How talented the Atkins are; (Good luck on the 22nd, Steve!); 2) How charming and dedicated Neal and his staff are; 3) How lucky we diners are to have the restaurant's commitment to serving fresh, local ingredients; 4) That the best macaroni and cheese on the planet can be found so close to home.

The Kitchen Table is located at 1840 West Main in Richmond (434-8686) and is open for dinner Tues-Sat. evenings. Visit their website at http://thekitchentablebistro.com/.