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Could there be a better place to celebrate my son Nick's birthday (17!) than at Tourterelle? I wanted it to be a special setting, with spectacular food, so last Thursday we made our way down to New Haven (a mere 30 minute drive). Nick is one of those kids on whom the artistry Tourterelle brings to the table is not lost. The problem is, I may have created a culinary monster by introducing him to Chef Bill Snell's talents!

We arrived somewhat early, which is always a good idea, because as the evening progressed, the intimate dining rooms became more and more crowded. Christine Snell had time at the beginning of our feast to come over and make a few thoughtful recommendations and to mention how warmly the restaurant has been received; remember, they have only been open since late last summer.

Following her suggestion, I started with a simple spinach salad, and Nick chose escargots. Although I just said that my salad was simple, there was no detail over looked in its creation. Bonne Bouche cheese (the name loosely translates to "tasty morsel" and it's a smooth, creamy goat cheese with an ash rind), and crisped red onion rings graced the bed of baby spinach leaves. Hardboiled blue eggs, fresh from Flower Power organic farm in Ferrisburg, was another example of a simple salad elevated by the Snell's commitment to fresh local food suppliers. Nick's sautéed plump escargots came mounded on a slice of robust garlic sausage, with a pressed bread base, and a crown of brilliant green watercress. Although there were many courses that followed this one, when asked at the end of the meal for his favorite offering of the evening, Nick had this on his list.

Christine also recommended the goat cheese crusted rack of lamb. The four rib chops had a sizable dab of chevre on each, which worked well due to the inherent nature of this cheese to be dry, and lamb is anything but.... Couscous came with the lamb and was prepared with a Moroccan tomato jam and a merguez ragout ("merguez" comes from "mirqaz" or "mirqas," and means sausage in Arabic). Thinly sliced stewed lemon rind offered a subtle tartness to the ragout, which was a lovely foil to the rich lamb.

On the drive to the restaurant, I had mentioned to Nick that Tourterelle's bouillabaisse was exceptional and so he selected that for his main course. He was smitten with this classic slow-cooked French seafood stew. A huge, welcoming bowl of mussels, scallops, shrimp, and fish in a gently spiced rich tomato broth (with an interesting Thai note) was placed in front of him. There was none left by the end of the meal, and I was only allowed one mussel. Sigh.

Savory crepes are also part of Tourterelle's menu, as are some smaller "bistro fare" offerings, and while Nick ordered the dinner portion of bouillabaisse, there is a smaller sized plating available.
And by the end of the meal, there was little room left for dessert, unless of course, you are a 17-year-old male. Nick finished with a luscious housemade cheesecake, topped with lemon curd. Christine pointed out that Tourterelle has a pastry chef on staff, which explained the superb quality of the cheesecake. Somehow, a chocolate banana crepe also found its way to our table and it was thoroughly appreciated.

After dinner, Christine asked if I wanted to see the "Inn" portion of Tourterelle, so I ventured upstairs to find three beautifully appointed bedrooms. One had a fireplace, another had a sunken tub, and all were fitted with luxurious linens, spreads, and pillows. She mentioned that the inn had 12 weddings booked for summer 2010, and I realized how convenient these rooms would be for the wedding party. On the way out of the last room, I noticed a charming piece of Quimper on the wall. Quimper pottery has been manufactured for over 300 years in Quimper, a town in Brittany, France where Christine was born.

Back downstairs, her husband/chef Bill was chatting with a friend at the bar (and a convivial bar it is). It was an honor to meet the man behind the impressive dinner Nick and I had just enjoyed. Along the path of our conversation, we realized that his mother and I had gone to the same high school in New Jersey, and Bill and I had grown up within three towns of each other. So there we were, atop a beautiful hilltop in New Haven, experiencing six (or less) degrees of separation.

Make sure there is no separation between you and Tourterelle - make a point to visit this charming French outlet in the near future. Nick would say, do so for the escargot. I would say, do so for the lamb. We both would say, do so for the bouillabaisse...and leave room for dessert.

Tourterelle is open for dinner Wednesday - Saturday from 5:30-10 p.m. Its Sunday brunch is served 10 a.m.- 3 p.m. Visit www.tourterellevt.com for more information, or call (802) 453-6309.