by Margo Callaghan

Call it insider information. Last week I was thrilled to be privy to a sneak peek at chef/owner David Hoene's spring-inspired offerings before they were printed on the menu at Pauline's Café. Although by the time you read this, these plates will be available for you to savor too, if not as a standard offering, then as a special for the day.

As an overview, I was impressed by Hoene's commitment to using fresh seasonal food and his knowledge of early spring greens; they were a prevalent feature on each of the season's main course highlights. Sautéed Swiss chard was a key accompaniment to many of Hoene's new dishes. It has a slight bitterness similar to beet greens and the subtle salty flavor of spinach leaves. The stalks provide a delicate crispness. As the spring season progresses, Hoene explained, he will be adjusting plates to accommodate nature's bounty, taking advantage of fresh vegetables, mushrooms, and other greens as they become available.

"It has been a hot spring, so things will go fast," he explained, mentioning that he looks forward to the availability of fresh ramps, watercress, nettles, and morels in the near future.
So here is a brief look at just a few of Pauline's new offerings for spring. With so many, I don't have space for all, nor for all of the details that these dishes richly deserve. Know that all feature fresh local meats and ingredients whenever possible, in keeping with Hoene's ongoing commitment.

Lamb
What would a spring menu be without lamb? Pauline's is featuring a small rack encased in pine nuts, pesto, and mint. Hoene purchases the lamb locally, from Shuttleworth Farm.
"It is pasture-fed and has a mild flavor, especially in comparison to, say, Australian lamb, so it needs to be served with fresh sauces." Hoene said. Alongside the lamb came a root vegetable and couscous mix, "to clear the palate. It won't feel as if you had a heavy meal," Hoene offered. A "medallion" of baked chevre cheese is also on the plate as a separate component to savor in whatever amount desired (for the record, I savored the entire piece. Others may opt to share.)

Beef
Pauline's luscious steak medallions have been re-invented in a new Steak Diane interpretation (sans flame) for the season. A rich cream sauce with sherry and Dijon mustard as its main ingredient is served over the beef, with an earthy shitake mushroom compote playing a major role. Also new on the menu is a veal meatloaf, prepared with bleu cheese butter on top. Each of these main courses came with a small mound of naturally sweet shredded carrots atop the sautéed Swiss chard, adding color, and texture.

Fish
On a lighter note, Hoene's sous chef Nate Creed brings his creativity to a wonderful new dish, Cod ala Vito, which features olives and capers for a piquant foil to the brightness of a fresh cod fillet. In a past life, Creed worked with Hoene at Mary's in Bristol. He joined Hoene at Pauline's in 2001, and the two have worked their culinary magic together ever since. Creed's cod dish takes the place of haddock on the menu, again with the mission of taking advantage of the seasonality of ingredients.

By now, you have the idea: Pauline's celebrates spring with what spring brings. Yet these ingredients do not magically appear at their kitchen door: it is Hoene's commitment to source the ever-changing produce of the season, and his ability to expertly prepare them that makes Pauline's menu sing.

Pauline's is located on Rte. 7, just over the town line in South Burlington, and is open for lunch Mon.-Sat. 11:30-2, and dinner Sun.-Thurs. 5-9:30 p.m., Fri. and Sat. 4:30-9:30 p.m. Visit www.paulinescafe.com, or call 862-1081.