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by Margo Callaghan

We arrived early Friday evening at The Bearded Frog for a birthday dinner: Matt's, not mine. We had our pick of tables on the porch, under the thoughtfully placed awning that kept the sun's rays at bay and allowed for a refreshing breeze. By the end of our dinner, every table on the porch would be taken - filled with a lively mix of locals and visitors to one of the bright stars in Shelburne's horizon of great eateries.

Our waitperson, Ceilia, was an enthusiastic fount of knowledge on the night's offerings. Following her appetizer descriptions, I was faced with a tough decision: curried asparagus gratin or a tomatillo gazpacho. It was decided by the warm night's temperature with the cool summer soup winning over my favorite vegetable. If you love garlic, the gazpacho should be your choice too, regardless of the temperature outside. The chilled soup got a zesty note from its tomatillo base and came served with an orb of tomato horseradish sorbet on top. I loved the contrast of taste, temperature, and consistency of the frosty addition. Note to the bar keep: that sorbet would also make an awesome base for a frozen Bloody Mary, yes?

Matt's choice was the Frog's filet mignon. Matt is my meat and potatoes man and he couldn't have been happier than with this perfectly grilled and tender beef served with a buttery horseradish spread, alongside mashed potatoes with a note of garlic.

My son Nick and I both chose the stuffed Statler-style chicken breast. Statler refers to the cut of chicken breast that keeps the drumette portion of the wing attached to the breast. It has long been a staple on the restaurant's menu, although the ingredients with which it is stuffed do change seasonally. Tonight, the breast held a mix of fresh mozzarella and crispy pancetta. My first taste of the chicken did not include the cheese or the Italian bacon - nor did it need to. All on its own merit, the breast meat was remarkably moist, with a perfectly crisped skin. The next slice featured the unctuous richness of the mozzarella and the saltiness of the pancetta. It was a great flavor experience. Served on the side was a refreshing chilled white bean salad, dressed with light creamy vinaigrette, and topped with an herb-y pesto drizzle of basil and arugula. A few tender stalks of broccolini added a bright flavor and colorful touch to the plate. It was a beautifully paired dish with all of the components enhancing each other. Both Nick and I were smitten with what was really a relatively simple recipe, executed perfectly.

It was supposed to be manager Dickie Austin's night off, so I was surprised when he visited our table to check in. Alas, I don't think days off come easily to this man who seems to always be on hand to make sure all is well with his customers. He made a great pitch for a new dessert item he thought we should try - a trio of chocolate decadences referred to as Chocoholism: a milk chocolate mousse cube, dark chocolate ganache, white chocolate sorbet, cacao fruit puree, and a bittersweet chocolate brittle. Sadly, there was no way that Nick or I could manage more than cappuccino for dessert and Matt had already ordered his favorite Frog dessert - the flourless chocolate cake. So we'll be back to try Dickie's dessert recommendation! If you have tried the "Chocoholism," drop me a line and let me know what you think of it! (margo@windridgepublishing.com)

The cozy bar at The Bearded Frog opens every day at 4:30 and dinner begins at 5 p.m., indoors or out.