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by Margo Callaghan

The reason for this article's title was my observance of fellow diners at Leunig's last week. It was a heavy couples crowd of all ages. There were a few friendly larger groups sprinkled throughout the inside dining rooms, as well as those taking advantage of dining al fresco in the midst of  a bustling (but steamy) Thursday evening in the big city. But couples were prevalent, no doubt taking advantage of the open air and European-inspired spirit of the popular bistro.

And although my friend Tess Kenney and I couldn't be considered one the "romantic" couples dining that night, we enjoyed all the same ambience and cuisine as those love-struck twosomes. Besides, we were there on a mission: to celebrate Tess' birthday (the number of which shall remain undisclosed). We are an odd couple of friends, witnessed by our ultra-divergent tastes in selecting from Leunig's menu.

Duck was Tess' choice: a duck leg confit served on an interesting bed of andouille sausage, dried cherries, spatzle, and a touch of sauerkraut. Duck just isn't my favorite fowl, which was fine because Tess didn't have to share. But I couldn't resist aiming my fork across the table to scoop up a slice of the sausage and cherry. Even sans duck, it could have served as a great main course to my way of thinking. The spirited andouille came with a Germanic-inspired spatzle with just a few flavorful shreds of sauerkraut, plus piquant dried cherries all atop fresh spinach leaves. Tess said the duck was really lovely, with a crisped skin and moist meat beneath.

My eyes fell upon the Oyster Trio offered as a shared extravaganza. Imagine all of this on one luscious plate: half a dozen cornmeal-dredged fried oysters, four Rockefeller-style (with Pernod cream sauce), and four more in their raw magnificence with Champagne Mignonette. Much as I tried, I could not talk Tess into sharing the plate with me, but maybe next time. For now, knowing that I would love them, I went with the seared sea scallops with apricot and elderberry glaze. They came coupled with the allure of a smoked bacon risotto cake, which was served in the center of the plate, with six lusty, perfectly prepared scallops around the edge. The salty, savory risotto cake featured a marvelously crispy exterior, with the creaminess that is risotto on the inside. It was a perfect pairing with the slightly sweet scallops.

Finally, I have to "come clean": in one of my recent write-ups, I suggested that banana cream pie was a rarity in the area. Oops. There it was, on Leunig's dessert menu! To make matters worse, I had no room left to savor it this night. What I did have room for was the recommendation of Leunig's manager, Amy Bernhardt, that Tess and I might enjoy the Pear Martini as an after dinner treat. Being a Manhattan kind of cocktail girl, I hadn't sampled too many martinis before. Come to find out, this has been a huge oversight on my part...at least as far as this particular Martini-esque experience goes. To the table came two picture-perfect Martini glasses. The basis of the libation featured Absolute Pear vodka, coupled with a splash of St. Germain elderberry liquor and a float of champagne, all well chilled, served up, with a slice of lime. What a fabulous end to an evening filled with one terrific dish after another. Chef Donnell Collins came over to our table to chat during our martini course, happy to hear that the duck and scallops were extremely well received. Kudos for her continued efforts to bring an eclectic assortment of creative dishes to the table. She has been with Leunig's for six years and became a co-owner of this popular eatery just about a year ago.

I already know what's in store for my next dinner at Leunig's, my selections are already set: I will find someone to share oysters with and follow up the evening with Banana Cream Pie and a Pear Martini. Anyone want to come along with me?