Viewing 1 of 2

My bee history
Ten years ago, I granted a local beekeeper's request to host his hives on my farm. I agreed and we scouted my property to find the most favorable site to locate the colony. Over the three years that he had his hives on my land, I did loads of welcoming things to keep the bees busy. I planted a couple of acres of sunflowers, many apple trees, and over a hundred elderberries. His boxed beauties went from a count of five to an eventual 15, and during this time, he trained his nephew to take over the business of his bees. When they both left the honey business, Todd Hardie of Honey Gardens in Ferrisburg took over the bee yard and grew his prized honey makers to an astounding 35 hives. Hardie managed the hives in my field (and hundreds more around Vermont) for about five years and when he changed his operations, the bees left my land.

Although I was not devastated by the absence, I really missed the activity and all the buzzing about. Every year Todd gave me jars of honey as a trade for using my space. I was thrilled beyond words. I was a winner - twice over. The bonus of increased pollination in my gardens and orchards was the primary benefit and the honey of course was secondary. Increased yield and better plant health was evident after the bees were added to the farm.

The two hives I set up are alive and well and I have been stung twice so far. I was stung right through the gloves on the back of my hands and both times on the same day too. Boy did that smart - twice! I gave the bees a fine home and welcomed them with additional plantings of Shasta daisy and black-eyed Susans numbering 100 each. Ah yes, similar to being a mother, "Provide a good home and good food and this is the thanks I get?" I have heard that before.
Here is an important bit of information to know: if anyone comes upon a swarm of bees or finds an unwanted bee factory in the garage or the eaves of their house, the bees can be safely removed and relocated, rather than killed. I must also state the obvious: do not attempt to burn the hive because both the honey and the wax will fuel a fire, and the structure it is connected to will be lost in the fire too. Most local animal control officers will have contact information and the phone numbers of beekeepers who can relocate the hive.

I don't know much about the care of the bees, yet, but I do understand the need for them and the need to provide welcoming areas for them to thrive. I have planted chemical free orchards and gardens on my farm, and I like it that way. If I think a plant needs attention, I am likely to spray it with a blended compost tea. Overall, the spray improves most greenery. Plants are lush, greener, taller, and generally more robust and bigger. The spray is harmless to insects and worms love it. And we like the honey too.

Honeybee health threats
Vermont Agriculture Department and the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) report an alarming occurrence affecting honeybees. The official name of the phenomenon is Colony Collapse Disorder and it is of unknown cause to date. To use a popular TV reference the "un-sub" (unknown subject) is yet to be found.

In the bee's case, the "unknown subject" has been rumored to be microwave, cell tower, or satellite interference. These three things are not easily nor likely to be isolated as the direct cause, but there may be a link. Why can't we pinpoint one as the cause? Because we cannot isolate or disconnect from any of the three influences. Can you imagine this scenario? The entire state would have to put away cell phones for a period of nine months, all microwave signals would have to cease, as well as satellite communications (including TV signals) for the same period! This is unlikely.

Several other issues threaten the honeybees' survival too: pests (animals), parasites (mites), fugal and viral disease, in addition to environmental causes and chemicals.

Another suspect that may have caused honeybee colony collapse is mites. Tracheal mites infect bee's respiratory tracts and infest a hive. Varroa mites cause the death of the host. Mother varroa mites use the incubating bee larvae in the pupae stage as food for her developing eggs; that spells death for the hive if no replacement bees are hatched.

The fungal disease chalkbrood (mummification of the brood), as well as the bacterial disease American foulbrood (which makes a stinky mess out of the hive), also contribute to fatalities observed in bee colonies.

Larger "pests" threaten honeybees as well. Bears and skunks have a real desire to get their paws inside the hive too.

So, how could I help protect these busy pollinators? I decided to take a class to learn more about the business of the bees and made this beekeeping checklist:
- Take bee class and join Vermont Beekeepers Association (Sept. 2009)
- Find mentor (Jan. 2010)
- Order two sets of hives including suit and smoker (Feb. 2010)
- Order two colonies of bees (March 2010)
- Assemble and paint hives (April 2010)
- Pick-up live bees and install in hives (May 2010)
- Wait for the results

Mary Houle is a master gardener, master composter, certified Square Foot Gardener instructor, and SOUL graduate. Houle completed the UVM master gardener training 10 years ago and has recently completed the UVM Extension Master Gardener certification process again. Additionally, she recently completed a six-hour training program and exam to qualify as a First Detector related to plant health issues.