Citris, Garlic, and Herb Infused Shrimp and Beef Skewers with Peppadew Compote.

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by Lin Stone

I walked a little faster and stepped a little lighter to make my way across the windy brick walkways of Church Street Marketplace to reach my anticipated destination: Leunig's Bistro & Café. I arrived a bit earlier than my reservation, but was received with ease and ushered inside to a cozy corner table perfect for people watching.

Leunig's casual, convivial, warm atmosphere and its scrumptious bistro fare have made it the marketplace's base camp; I can't imagine Church Street without Leunig's as its cornerstone. Its well-crafted pleasures kindle four out of five senses: savory, simmering smells foretell tender, tantalizing tastes; ambient sights and sounds are reminiscent of Paris bistros. Ambient French music from legendaries such as Edith Piaf and Jacques Brel plays in the background, many little tables of people sit engaged in laughter and tete a tetes, and solo diners immerse their noses in books and lift steaming soupspoons to their mouths. This is quite an easy, tantalizing way for an armchair traveler to slip away from it all for an hour or two.

I held a bowl of steaming café au lait in my hands while I waited for the others; well, that's not quite true - I had two bowls. Then my hungry lunchtime companions arrived, Holly Johnson and Molly Stone, and we ordered quickly; our ever patient and solicitous waiter, Shannon, returned just as quickly with our hot appetizers. For starters, Holly and I shared an order of Citrus Garlic and Herb Infused Shrimp and Beef Skewers with Peppadew Compote. The citrus mixture with its fresh lime, orange, and lemon juices, along with the soy sauce, garlic, and herb infusion was a flawless balance of light and tangy flavors. I didn't know what a peppadew was, but I did discover that It was delightful: the compote was slightly similar to a spicy, sweet red pepper salsa but without the Mexican seasonings and with a smidgeon of fruit: I suspect mango.

Holly opted for that quintessential midday French comfort food: Croque Monsieur. Here it is served open-faced with French ham and Swiss cheese served atop toasted brioche and crested with a warm béchamel parsley crème sauce, which was melt in your mouth delicious and light - so much so that you would have thought it flourless and whipped. The French ham was a welcome émigré when paired with the brioche and béchamel because stronger or smokier flavors would have overwhelmed the other more delicate tastes.  Served on a slightly sweet egg-y toasted brioche, this dish became a slightly decadent and sublime comfort food.

In contrast, I chose the Slow-Roasted Duck Confit Leg, served on a steamy pilaf of tiny Beluga lentils, roasted vegetables, and small juicy smoked tidbits of Vermont Smoke and Cure slab bacon. The crispy, golden duck leg sat atop sautéed green spinach. The duck was tender, moist, and without a visible drop of grease - a coup when cooking duck and likely due to the slow-roasting process. I loved the presentation as well: an earthy bed of lentils, carrots, and spinach topped with the golden duck and a final bouffant of curled burgundy shredded beets. 

Molly had a tall glass of a sparkling maple-infused drink that she proclaimed worthy of daily supping. For lunch, she wanted a straightforward Angus burger with French fries: American comfort food done well.  She was surprised to find that she liked the slightly nutty soft whole-wheat roll, and not so surprised that she loved the hot and crispy fries. Leunig's also offers French fries cooked in truffle oil, so we also ordered these to share and compare. The flavor difference is lovely and subtle, but distinct; Holly and I preferred the subterranean flavor of the white truffle oil infused version; Molly preferred the classic.

Well, after all of this armchair travelers' comfort food we thought it best to high-step it home to give the devil his due on the treadmill. But you can trust this guide - any adventurous trek up Church Street requires a rejuvenating stop for sustenance at base camp - Continental style.

For full menus or more information, please visit www.leunigsbistro.com or call 863-3759.

 Hours: Brunch - Saturday and Sunday 9 a.m.-2 p.m.

Lunch - Monday-Friday 11 a.m.-3 p.m.

Dinner - Sunday-Thursday 5 p.m.-10 p.m.

Friday-Saturday 5 p.m.-11 p.m.

Live Jazz Tuesday through Thursday evenings 7-10 p.m.