Sparkling Spring Tulip cocktail and a Dirty Filthy Martini

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The Farm Effect begins in the driveway to the Inn at Shelburne Farms: the curving dirt road makes its way through lush fields and under the watch of open-armed trees. In just a couple miles, the slow drive and gentle curves lead you through the trees near Church Woods to the Inn, where the frenetic world has dropped away.

Once inside, my dinner companions and I meet Culinary Institute graduate and bartender, Tim Dempsey at the dramatic wooden sprite-carved bar. Shelburne Farms' philosophy and commitment to fresh, local products begins here: the bartop is lined with glasses of the farm garden's fresh tulips, rhubarb swizzles, wild ramps, sorrel, and spearmint. The citrus and botanical bitters are from Urban Moonshine, a small Burlington company which produces handcrafted organic bitters and herbal tonics. The Sparkling Spring Tulip Cocktail is as refreshing and effervescent as a trip to the spa: prosecco, Moonshine bitters, tulip petals, St-Germain elderflower liqueur, and a raw sugar cube. Its taste was exquisite, light, clean, and refreshing. In a study of contrasts, my dining companion Kathy Howard ordered a Dirty Filthy Martini: organic vodka, pickled ramps, castelveltrano olives, Vermont Butter and Cream Cremont double crème, and olive au jus. She commented, "The drink was very smooth, not too salty, and slightly earthy." Roz Graham, director of communications for the Farm, ordered a Rhubarb Swizzle, a layered old fashioned with star anise, simple syrup, Goslings dark rum, muddled rhubarb, and lime juice. When the Inn is not too busy, visitors are welcome to call ahead to enjoy appetizers and cocktails in one of the public sitting rooms.

Shelburne Farms strives for consistency in its philosophy and commitment to small producers and sustainably grown local foods. According to Dining Room Manager Allison Gibson, this direction is reflected in wine list details, too. "This year we have been able to source more wines from smaller vintners that use sustainable and organic practices. Additionally, we have focused on choosing food-friendly wines that are particularly expressive of place."

Josh Carter, the market garden manager, joins us at our table and shares his and Chef David Hugo's mutually supportive approach to fine food. Carter states, "You get in the best products possible and then you need to get out of the way." Fine quality foods do not need a lot of convoluted manipulations nor heavy-handed seasonings. Carter and Hugo meet in the fall to coordinate plans for the upcoming season's gardens and menus.

Cocktails consumed, we ordered dinner. For appetizers we opted for country paté with carrot slaw, white bean hummus and vegetable pita with radish aioli, wild mushroom risotto, and an asparagus salad with pheasant back mushrooms and chive vinaigrette. Each dish succeeded - no, exceeded - Hugo's and Carter's claims. Our entrees were beautifully presented, each cooked to perfection with fresh herb flavors. The seared George's Bank scallops were lightly seasoned, served with sautéed fennel and a light, warm vermouth buerre blanc; the Ledge End venison melted in your mouth, and the accompanying soft smoked cheddar polenta was peppery, firm, and moist. The tender little grilled Cavendish quail was paired with a French sweet and sour reduction, surrounded by plump soft cherries.

Every dish was unforgettably delicious, including dessert. Rhubarb crepes with honey caramel sauce and petite bowls of house-made vanilla ice cream with warm Shelburne Farms 2011 maple syrup were sweet pink and amber toasts to spring.

The rain has not dampened the spirit or foods served at the Inn at Shelburne Farms. Sun or not, the season has begun and it's only a short distance to another era and the Farm Effect experience: peace, beauty, and another season's creative bounty of fabulous and healthy, sustainable foods.

Breakfast 7:30-11:30 a.m.

Dinner  5:30-9:30 p.m.

Sunday brunch 8 a.m. - 1 p.m.

Reservations (802) 985-8498

www.inn@shelburne farms