Jamie Bissonette (left) and son, Michael

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I can't remember the first time I stepped foot in The Dutch Mill. It was even before moving to Shelburne. What drew me in was the kitschy calling of the distinctive 1940-esque Dutch-inspired architecture on Route 7. Come on...who can resist walking into the door of such iconic design?

Thankfully, upon that first entrance - and every experience hence - the Bissonette family, who opened the Dutch Mill restaurant in 1995, has stayed true to their roots. That means verbs such as "infused" and nouns such as "confit" aren't on the menu now and never will be. Instead, look for more comforting options: breakfasts that include phrases like "short stack" and "hash"; lunches that offer a hot open-faced sandwich (try the turkey or roast beef...) served with a billowing mound of homemade mashed potatoes or equally enticing hand-cut French fries. Jamie Bissonette, along with his son Michael, is apt to be manning the grill in the kitchen, which courtesy of the ordering window, is in view of all in the cozy dining room. At any point in the ordering process, either Bissonette may be heard to yell out: "you want gravy on the potatoes?" That question will be the dead giveaway that you haven't been in before for one of these sandwiches. Both father and son have an uncanny ability to remember how the regulars like their food. For me, that means when Mary (Jamie's wife and oft waitress) comes up to the table, she doesn't ask me what my lunch order will be...she will arrive already holding my diet Pepsi (with two  lemons), and will only have to ask if I want a side of fries with my poached eggs on an English muffin with spinach. And it's a rare occasion when I say "no thanks" to the fries, because I happen to subscribe to the theory that the fries at the Dutch Mill are outstanding. Not too thick, not too thin, fried to a deep, satisfying brown crispness. I guess one of the few nods Jamie has made to more modern menu development is the switch from lard to canola oil for frying. "Heck, I don't want to kill my customers!" he remarks. Jamie and Michael have also added some fresh salads to his lunch options - I tried the Greek salad with substantial layers of feta, black olives, and red onions, and hardly missed the fries at all. Almost. And Michael has recently introduced some tasty wraps to the menu....as in the "Crispy Chicken Wrap" I tried, and I devoured. It was really a huge BLT with chicken added and all folded into a tomato basil wrap and grilled. But one of the mainstays of the menu is the Dutch Mill's famous signature pork BBQ - there are no plans to tinker with the menu when it comes to this pulled pork - whether served as a platter, or on a roll. It would no doubt spark an uprising among existing customers if anything were to be changed in the Dutch Mill's secret BBQ recipe.

Breakfast at The Dutch Mill often finds a line out the door on weekends: the aforementioned "short stack" of The Dutch Mill's blueberry pancakes can put a smile on my face that lasts all day. The other reason for the smile is the likelihood that while having lunch or breakfast there, I will have run into a bunch of people I know. And people from every walk of life dine here - from a member of the Selectboard or the on-duty crew from the town's Rescue Squad, to the chief of police - the dining room at the Dutch Mill brings everyone together literally and figuratively. Michael's girlfriend, Jessica Spadaccini, also pitches in to help - it is amazing how many people will turn up there - the size of the place is a bit deceptive from the outside.

The Dutch Mill isn't open for dinner: they serve lunch (or breakfast) until 2 p.m. every day except for Monday, when they close at 11 a.m. This gives the Bissonettes the opportunity to, well, cater to their catering business. This portion of the Dutch Mill's business has seen much growth, as Jamie and Michael make their BBQ, roasted chicken and other menu items available for catered events, such as an onsite lunch they catered at the Medical Center last Friday. "It is really word of mouth that is bringing us new catering business," Jamie shared. And he explains that his prices are much lower than more traditional caterers charge for more upscale menus, "but a BBQ lunch or dinner is a great option that won't break a budget."

For more information on Dutch Mill's catering menu, call Jamie at 343-9585. Otherwise, I'll see you next Thursday at the Dutch Mill for lunch. I'll be the one ordering the poached eggs and French fries.