Steamed Whole Fish with Ginger and Scallion

Viewing 1 of 3

by Margo Callaghan

What a treat - to have a chef select and specially prepare my meal - it wasn't even something on the menu (yet). This was the case at Chef Leu's last weekend. Owner Mei Wang asked if I would like to try some of the truly special plates to be featured during the restaurant's two-week Chinese New Year celebration. And the beautifully-plated steamed whole tilapia that was placed before me was a clear indication that a true celebration was being planned. It will be in honor of the Year of the Dragon (last celebrated in 2000) with Chef Leu's special menu available from Jan. 22 through Feb. 5.

The Chinese word for fish is homonymous to the word "overabundance" and having a whole steamed fish to start the year is a symbol of good will. And good eating, as Chef Leu's delicate tilapia was served atop a pungent pool of thin brown miso and soy with a clear touch of ginger zest. A bouquet of lemon grass and scallions offered a crisp texture to the soft uncious meat of the white fish. 

My dining companions included Jim Talley and his son, Mark. Their selections highlighted the many Asian territories covered by Chef Leu's menu. Mark took advantage of the relatively new Thai dishes now available at Leu's. An overflowing plate of Pad Thai (with chicken) was his choice. And Mark was happy with not only the degree of heat, but also the subtle sweetness of the plate. It was a win both by standards of quality and quantity. There was enough left for lunch the next day.(Which, btw, is typically the case: what is already a reasonably-priced menu is made even more so by the amount of food offered on each plate and the cheerful readiness of servers to pack up the leftovers - perfect for lunch the following day).

His father's choice of Flaming Ambrosia represented the Mandarin side of Leu's talents. Our waiter, Chi Chi, adroitly spooned the flaming sauce over the two enormous pieces of chicken that had been deep fried and served with the classic pineapple and cherry fruit. Neither the Pad Thai nor Mandarin options would have found their way to the table without the Talley party joining us. I have a personal lack of enthusiasm for any dishes that combine fruit and meat (read: regardless of the restaurant or the chef preparing them, I'm not going to be a big fan!). It's  therefore good for readers to know that Chef Leu's creations sporting pineapple, cherries, and chicken, or pad noodles with coconut milk and lime, were well liked and thoroughly enjoyed among those who know about and appreciate sweet and savory combos.

Mr. Callaghan decided on a surf and turf combination: sea scallops and slices of prime beef in a rich brown sauce. Chi Chi introduced the surf and turf to a sizzling hot pan tableside before serving. Crisp green pea pods accented both the color and texture of the dish. It was a winning combination.

With  Mark standing as an exception (a tried and true Pad Thai fan), other members of the party all ventured away from their standard Chef Leu selections and tried something new. And we were all more than happy with our selections. I am going to try to "broaden my Chef Leu horizons" over the course of this new lunar year because I have never been disappointed when I do so. Yet for some reason, it takes an act of congress for me to move away from my favorite Viet Nam Salad with Spring Rolls (the flavor of the fish sauce is remarkable!). Ditto for Matt to give up his pork lo mein, which is served at our house frequently thanks to Chef Leu's take out menu. But we are always happy with the results when we travel to new locations on the menu.

And between Jan 22 and Feb. 5 there will be even more options to choose from, as Mei prepares her special menu suitable for ringing in the Year of the Dragon. Make time to stop by and enjoy!

Chef Leu's House is located at 3761 Shelburne Road in Shelburne, and is open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. For a complete menu, visit www.chefleu.com. All menu items are also available to take out by calling 985-5258.