Sea Scallops with Vermont Fresh Garlic Parsley Linguini is one of many healthy choices on the updated winter menu.

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by Sheri Duff

Saturday evening my husband and I treated our youngest daughter, Emily, to dinner at Cucina Antica before her return to college. While Tim and I greeted a few friendly faces, our waitress welcomed us with baked bread fresh-from-the-oven. Before we dipped even one piece of bread into the balsamic-infused dipping oil, I had one noteworthy suggestion: save room for dessert.  

Cucina Antica's owner William Wisell was on hand, per usual, and he came over to greet us and mention the new winter menu. "The menu changes along with the seasons. This winter we are focusing on heartier comfort foods prepared in healthy ways. As a chef I would get bored if I didn't update the menu," he said before sharing his latest offering - a prime rib special every Saturday night in February. Regulars take note.

Truth be told, the Duff family is in a rut when it comes to Cucina. We almost always order one of their fabulous homemade pizzas, but when we saw the new winter entrees and the specialty menu options, we decided against ordering our standard fare. 

In an effort to heed my initial warning, we opted to forgo the tempting array of appetizers choosing instead to enjoy the artisan greens with maple balsamic that was included with our entrees. Tim made a delicious pasta selection: the Vermont Fresh Portobello Mushroom and Ricotta Stuffed Ravioli topped with Sirloin Steak and Mushroom Cream. The sirloin steak was cooked perfectly to his specifications, medium rare, and the Ricotta Stuffed Ravioli was not only flavorful it was also very satisfying. Emily thoroughly enjoyed her choice of Vermont Fresh White Bean Ravioli which was prepared with truffle oil and artichokes in a creamy mascarpone sauce and nestled on top was a delightful homemade crab cake. And I ordered the Sea Scallops. A half dozen oversized scallops prepared in a light tomato tartare basil pesto and white balsamic over fresh garlic parsley linguine. Yum, yum, and yum need I say more? 

For once, or so it seems, my family heeded my original warning to save room for a dessert, or two, as the case may be. All of Cucina's desserts are homemade by William's wife, Cristy, and are all worthy of note: crème brulee, cheesecake, tiramisu, cannoli, not to mention the specials offered on a nightly basis. We settled first on what I consider one of the best desserts in the world, Cucina's Lemon Cake. While we debated the attributes of every other dessert option on the menu, our veteran waitress Kelly recommended the Pumpkin Whoopie Pies. "Cristy only makes the whoopie pies about once a year," she commented. "And they are worth every bite." And with that ringing endorsement, we ordered both. The Lemon Cake with its Absolut citron vodka-spiked yellow cake layered with luscious lemon cream was scrumptious, as expected. As for the whoopie pies, with their maple mascarpone and cream cheese filling and delightful pumpkin flavor, they did the unimaginable and rivaled Cristy's renowned Lemon Cake. I suggest that the next time you patronize Cucina's, instead of saving room for dessert, consider this maxim: "Life is uncertain. Eat dessert first." 

Located in the Shelburne Shopping Park, Cucina Antica is open Tuesday through Sunday from 4-9 p.m. Call 985-1117 or 985-1118 for reservations, takeout, to cater a special occasion, or visit them on the web at www.bistrocucina.com.